A historic Sydney pub has pulled out its poker machines and replaced them with an Italian restaurant – with the shift toward food-driven, family-friendly hospitality increasing across Australia’s pub culture.
The Captain Cook Hotel in Paddington reopened this week following a heritage-led renovation by hospitality group Bird & Bear, which took over the venue in December last year. The biggest transformation saw the former gaming room converted into Joe’s Kitchen, a light-filled eatery specialising in Roman-style pinsa pizza.
The new restaurant features a skylight that floods the former pokies room with natural light, while the adjacent Josephson Lane has been reimagined as a leafy, European-style beer garden complete with fairy lights and dog-friendly seating.
Inclusive dining over gaming revenue
The move reflects a broader evolution in Australian pub culture, where operators are increasingly prioritising food quality and inclusive atmospheres over gaming revenue. Bird & Bear, known for operating community-focused venues including The Village Inn and The Navy Bear, has built its reputation on hospitality that balances strong identity with genuine inclusivity.
At Joe’s Kitchen, the focus is on pinsa—a lighter, more digestible alternative to traditional pizza with an airy, crisp crust. Led by Eric Tan, Head of Culinary for Bird & Bear, and Head Chef Gil Dela Cueva, the team worked with Rome-born, Italian-trained chef Alessandro Sistopaoli to develop a bespoke dough using Australian flour blends and traditional Roman cold-fermentation techniques.
“At Joe’s, we wanted a pizza that eats differently – something that feels right in a casual pub and laneway setting,” Tan said. “It’s relaxed, flavour-driven food, designed to be enjoyed slice after slice.”
Toppings include The Farmer, with Italian sausage, stracciatella, pesto and hot honey, alongside weekly Italian-leaning specials like stuffed zucchini flowers and pork cotoletta.
The 142-year-old pub, rebuilt in 1914 after a fire destroyed the original structure, now operates across four distinct spaces: a Sports Bar with the original central round bar intact, a relaxed Bistro, Joe’s Kitchen, and the laneway beer garden. Total capacity exceeds 250 guests.
The venue’s proximity to the Sydney Cricket Ground (SCG) and Allianz Stadium still caters to the pre- and post-game crowd, but with pub classics and Italian-leaning dishes designed for sharing. The Sports Bar notably features Heaps Normal Quiet XPA on tap—a non-alcoholic option that signals another cultural shift in Australian drinking habits.
The hotel is open Wednesday to Sunday, with Joe’s Kitchen serving from 5pm on weeknights and noon on weekends.
