Man in kitchen with Unox equipment

Behind with…Soo Young Kim from The Meat & Wine Co

Get to know Chef Soo Young Kim, Head Chef and Food Manager, at The Meat & Wine Co.

Where did your love of food come from?
I have always loved food and creating good food. I think my love for it started in the same way it does for many, and that is with family and friends. It’s the simple joy of gathering around a crowded table and watching how a great meal can instantly change the energy of a room that still inspires me.

Food was always the ultimate connector in my family when growing up, but as I grew older, that appreciation transformed into a serious fascination. I love the craftsmanship behind cooking and exploring how raw, high-quality ingredients can be elevated through fire, technique, and time. There’s nothing else like it. I enjoy watching the transformation of energy at The Meat & Wine Co today even more than I did as a child.

What was your first role in the industry, and what was the most significant lesson it taught you at the time? 
I’m a classically trained graduate of Le Cordon Bleu Culinary Arts Institute, and like almost every chef, I started at the very bottom of the kitchen hierarchy, scrubbing pans, preparing vegetables and learning under demanding, old-school chefs. Those early years were physically exhausting, but they instilled values that have stayed with me throughout my career.

The most important lesson I learned was that consistency is the true measure of a chef. Anyone can create an exceptional dish once, but producing that same standard, plate after plate, service after service, under intense pressure is what defines true professionalism. It taught me discipline, respect for quality ingredients, attention to detail and the mental resilience needed to succeed in this industry.

I joined The Meat & Wine Co in 2007 as a Senior Chef de Partie and have had the privilege of progressing through the ranks to Head Chef at flagship venues, including Circular Quay, before moving into my current executive leadership role as Head Chef and Food Manager.

Tell us about your current restaurant and its menu – what excites you most about it at the moment?
I am super excited for The Meat & Wine Co on Collins Street because I know Melbourneans will remember it. What I love most about The Meat & Wine Co is that we know exactly who we are. We’re a premium steakhouse, but our Afro-centric heritage and paddock-to-plate philosophy give us a point of difference that allows us to honour tradition while continuing to evolve.

As someone who has been part of the business for a very long time, it’s incredibly rewarding to help shape that evolution without ever losing sight of what our guests love about us. At the moment, I’m especially excited about the latest addition to our AGED programme for The Meat & Wine Co on Collins Street in Melbourne in particular. I think the diners of Melbourne and tourists alike will really enjoy it and remember it.

We’ve partnered with Yalumba to create a grass-fed MB4+ Southern Range rib-eye encased in artisan beef-dripping butter infused with naturally fermenting vintage Yalumba Signature Shiraz grapes and fresh thyme. As the grapes ferment within the butter, they impart a subtle vinous depth into the beef, creating layers of savoury richness, dark berry notes, gentle tannins and earthy herbal complexity. It’s a technique that celebrates both exceptional Australian produce and the craft behind dry ageing.

At the same time, some of the dishes I’m proudest of are the ones that have stood the test of time. Seeing guests return for our bruschetta, calamari, boerewors, biltong, crème brûlée or our signature chocolate fondant reminds me that consistency matters just as much as innovation. For me, a good Head Chef knows how to strike that balance of continuing to surprise people with new ideas while delivering the dishes they know and trust every single time.

What’s the most interesting ingredient, product, or technique you’ve been exploring lately—and why? 
Lately, I’ve been fascinated by the science and craftsmanship behind butter-encased dry ageing, and how a simple ingredient like fat can completely transform the character of a piece of beef.

For our Southern Range rib-eye, we’ve developed a technique where the beef is encased in a layer of artisanal beef-dripping butter infused with naturally fermenting Yalumba Signature Shiraz grapes. This creates a protective environment that slows moisture loss while allowing the natural ageing process to continue, giving the enzymes time to tenderise the meat and intensify its flavour.

What excites me most is the way the flavours evolve throughout the process. The richness of the beef fat, combined with the dark berry notes and subtle vinous complexity from the grapes, creates a depth that you simply can’t achieve through traditional methods alone. When the steak is finished over high heat, the natural sugars and fats develop into an incredible savoury crust while the centre remains beautifully tender and juicy.

As for the ‘why’ – simply because this sort of thing is at this point of my career what makes cooking so rewarding. It’s the opportunity to take a familiar ingredient like a great Australian steak and explore new techniques that reveal another layer of its potential.

Do you do anything day-to-day that helps you to tap into your creativity or source new ideas?
I make time each morning to read; whether it’s culinary books, online, food history or stories about the evolution of classic techniques. It helps me to remain curious in the kitchen and it gets the creative juices flowing nicely. Understanding where dishes and methods come from helps me think about how we can reinterpret them in a way that feels relevant for today’s diners. I also keep a close eye on the global dining landscape, because inspiration can come from seeing how other chefs and cultures approach ingredients, flavours and experiences.

A big part of my day-to-day creative process also comes from staying connected to the people who grow and produce our ingredients. I regularly speak with our farmers and suppliers to understand what is in season, what is thriving, and what exciting products might be emerging. Often, those conversations spark the most interesting ideas. Each day is different, but remaining immersed in what’s happening and what’s new in the space is a day-to-day must for me. It keeps me excited and creative.

How are guests and their changing expectations making you think about your approach?
Guests today are more curious and engaged than ever before, and that has changed the way I think about the dining experience. They don’t just want to enjoy a great steak; they want to understand the story behind it, like where the beef comes from, how the animal was raised, the ageing process, the producers involved, and how each element on the plate has been considered.

That curiosity challenges us to be more transparent and more intentional in the way we approach our food. It’s no longer just about delivering a beautiful dish; it’s about creating a connection between the guest, the ingredient and the people behind it.

At The Meat & Wine Co, I’m so proud of our paddock-to-plate philosophy, and I see education as an important part of that experience. Whether it’s explaining the provenance of our beef, the techniques behind our ageing programme or the story of the producers we work with, we want our guests to leave with more than just a memorable meal. 

Are there any food trends you’re embracing or intentionally pushing back on right now?
I don’t necessarily look at trends in terms of a strict ‘yes’ or ‘no’. Instead, my approach is to take inspiration from any emerging culinary idea and dynamically twist and adapt it to fit our brand’s specific DNA.

Rather than chasing a passing fad just because it’s popular, I prefer to break it down to its core element; whether that’s a new cooking technique, a flavour profile, or a presentation style, and I ask o how it can serve our paddock-to-plate philosophy and our unique Afro-centric heritage.

If a trend calls for over-complication, we strip it back to honour the premium quality of our beef. It’s all about filtering the outside culinary world through The Meat & Wine Co lens so that everything we serve feels completely authentic, elevated, and uniquely ours.

What’s the best thing about being a professional chef?
The rush of a perfectly executed service. When the kitchen is flowing like a well-oiled machine, tickets are flying, communication is sharp, and you walk out into the dining room to see a sea of happy guests, there is no high quite like it. You are creating memories for people in real-time.

What about your current role or experience keeps you up at night?
What keeps me up at night is also what continues to drive me and that is, the responsibility of maintaining excellence while constantly finding ways to evolve. After two decades, I’ve learned that success in this industry is built on consistency, but consistency doesn’t mean standing still. It means continuing to challenge ourselves, refine our craft and create memorable experiences for our guests while staying true to the standards they trust.

How do you switch off from the stress?
Honestly, by stepping completely away from hot lines and timers. I like to clear my head with quiet walks, getting out into nature, and spending time with my family. And ironically, cooking very simple, slow, comforting meals at home where no one is waiting on a ticket.

What’s one piece of advice you’d give to your younger self?
“Slow down and master the fundamentals before you try to reinvent them.” When you’re young, you want to use every technique and ingredient on one plate to prove yourself. I would tell my younger self to breathe, focus on perfecting heat control, seasoning, and kitchen organisation first. True culinary sophistication comes from restraint, not clutter.

Who’s impressing you in the industry at the moment and deserves a Restaurant Business shout-out?
I absolutely have to give a shout-out to Neil Perry and the incredible team at Margaret in Double Bay. What he has built there is an absolute masterclass in what it means to marry premium provenance with effortless hospitality.

Seeing Margaret climb to the number two spot on the World’s 101 Best Steak Restaurants list is massive for the Australian dining landscape, but it’s his foundational ‘Care’ philosophy that resonates with me the most. The way he honours his deep, decade-long relationships with local producers and sustainable fishermen completely mirrors our own paddock-to-plate values. He proves day in and day out that you don’t need to hide behind gimmicks when you have absolute respect for the raw ingredient, pristine execution, and a genuine love for taking care of people. That is the kind of standard that pushes all of us in the industry to keep raising our game.

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